Welcome to the specialized online Engraving Machines store, stay to see all our products manufactured with the highest quality standards.
Our engraving machines are of a high range above the other competitions on the market. Our experts provide you with a unique quality guarantee. Which is the best laser engraving and cutting machine, look at the specifications of each one.
What are the BEST brands of engraving machines?
Next we will make an exhaustive description of each type of engraving machine so that you can weigh your decision when buying and that you can obtain a durable and high quality product that fits your budget.
- 【STRONG COMPATIBILITY】 – The fiber laser is compatible with Windows XP, 7, 8, 10 (supports 32-bit / 64-bit. NOT compatible with iOS system). The marking software is compatible with CORELDRAW, AUTOCAD, PHOTOSHOP and other format files.
- 【MANUAL FOCUS FUNCTION】 – This fiber laser engraving machine has a laser focus function, to automatically focus by identifying the thickness of the material.
- 【POWERFUL PERFORMANCE】 – Equipped with a galvanometer system and multi-function table, the fiber laser marker is high-efficiency and practical.
- 【CONVENIENTLY PORTABLE】 – There are two handles on the top of the laser engraver for metal and non-mental designed for convenient movement.
- 【WIDELY USED】 – The laser engraver is widely used in many industries: jewelry, computer and cell phone keyboards, auto parts, electronic components, buckles, integrated circuits, etc.
- CO2 LASER – Sealed CO2 laser beam (40w) and new holder produce stable laser beams with faster cutting speed and longer life
- PRECISE CONTROL – Enhanced LCD display with the new “emergency stop” switch, which allows quick shutdown of the machine in an emergency. Also, 2 displays showing the water temperature and the temperature of the laser power can tell you the real-time temperature of the machine
- QUICK POSITIONING – Red dot pointer can quickly indicate engraving points and mark the path of the machine, identifying positioning sizes
- INTEGRATED FAN – The built-in fan and large smoke outlet greatly simplify the installation steps and promote the ventilation effect, also providing better protection of the X / Y axis during transportation
- DUAL PLATFORM – Equipped with dual platform, both regular and irregular can be easily engraved with our USB laser engraving machine, it no longer limits its creation by the shape of the materials
2-in-1: comes with 775 spindle and 15W function accessory. Can be used as a CNC router or engraver.- High quality and affordable – 4.5 out of 5 stars for the base version. Take full advantage of 80% of the aluminum body and take advantage of the added stability to mill a wider range of materials, while making it easy to clean with acrylic safety baffles to help contain dust and provide a safety barrier.
- Upgraded Control Board: Built-in Driver Chip + Fixed Heat Sink + External Fan + Rugged Case to extend the life of the control board. Autonomous short circuit protection to prevent burn out due to overload.
- Offline Controller Advantages: Take control of your 3018-PRO-M desktop CNC machine with offline control, provide manual control of your mill without any computer.
- Wide Application: Your engraving machine can be engraved on wood, plastic, acrylic, PCB, CCL, paper. The bit cannot etch carbide, jade, or other hard materials.
2-in-1: comes with 775 spindle and 15W function accessory. Can be used as a CNC router or engraver.
- Size: 65 * 61 * 53mm / 2.56 * 2.40 * 2.09in, Weight: 190g / 6.70oz. High-quality laser head, easy to carry, 450nm blue laser source, better stability and long working time, with a service life of more than 10,000 hours. Multi-angle engraving with adjustable tripod to engrave products at any angle and height.
- Wireless bluethooth controlled by smart phone, use mobile phone APP, easy to operate. Select from phone album, take a photo and sculpt directly, enter text or paint to carve, select built-in material image carving application, four engraving modes. Make any pattern you want to engrave.
- Safety certification: CE, FCC, FDA, RoHS, CDRH, IEC 60825-1 (laser level 1), IEC 60825-1 (laser level 4). Goggle protection, work warning alarm, mobile monitoring, overheating protection, password lock can protect you from accidental injury.
- It can be engraved on wood, bamboo, paper, lastics, leather, rubber, sponge, comb, wallet or other combustible weights. Wide range of use: craftsmen, shoemakers, carpenters, bakers, designers, DIYers and other beginners and professionals.
- We offer 1 year warranty with 30 days worry-free return, so 100% satisfaction and zero hassle-free returns are guaranteed. Please feel free to contact us when you use the item.
- Small and practical, no problem to use on your desk.
- The control system is open source (technology that controls the system is provided) for some gamers who like to DIY.
- Mini DIY desktop CNC engraving machine for carving and more cost-effective than normal engraving machine.
- Support our professional English design software for Win 7, XP, Win 8, Win 10. Optional 500mw / 2500mw / 5500mw laser module with heatsink, high laser engraving power and long working time
- Very interesting to install and use, perfect gift for DIY hobbyists. Wide application: can be used for printing, hand tools and industrial processing.
Our Laser Machines
Lasers have worked well for many years, especially when it comes to laser engraving and laser marking of metals including precious metals . Not only soft metals such as aluminum, but steel or very hard alloys can also be marked precisely, legibly and quickly with a laser. With certain metals, such as steel alloys, it is even possible to implement corrosion resistant markings without damaging the surface structure by annealing marking.
Metal products are marked with lasers in a wide range of industries: applications range from marking industrially produced series products for traceability to personalizing promotional items with logos or names.
Metals suitable for laser marking and engraving:
Stainless steel
Aluminum
Anodized aluminum
Hardened metals
Alloy
steels High speed steels.
Titanium, titanium alloys
Carbides
Brass
Copper
Precious metals (e.g. silver, gold)
Coated metals
What uses can you give the laser cutter?
It can be used for metal engraving, such as your name, for engraving metal plates, for engraving medals, for engraving jewelry, for wood.
How to use the laser cutting machine?
The laser cutter is one of the most useful tools in a modern store. Laser cutters work by directing a very powerful laser beam, at a precise focal length, onto a material that they cut or engrave, depending on how the laser cutter is configured. Laser cutters cut materials in a similar way to other computer-controlled tools, only they do so using a beam of light instead of a blade. When laser cutters are set up to etch something onto the surface of a material, they function like a printer, literally using their laser beam to etch an image onto something.
Anyone who wants to do a laser cut for the first time can use it and learn a little more about how laser cutters work or just explore the wonderful world of laser cutters.
Video demonstration of the laser machine
Machine
The first thing you will need to use a laser cutter is the laser cutter. However, if you don’t have one yet, the purchase is likely not within your budget.
If you really want your own laser cutter and you just don’t have a lot of money to make it, there are a couple of options. On this site there are several options that you can see and that suits your budget
You could also treat it like you would a car, costing almost as much, and lease-to-own.
Hardware
Now that we have a laser cutter, let’s move on to the materials we can cut and the basic things we can do with them.
Cast Acrylic – can be engraved and cut (has a nice frosted look).
Extruded Acrylic: can be cut (does not freeze when etched).
SAFE PLASTICS FOR LASERS:
Like ABS and polycarbonate, they can be etched
PLASTICS NOT SAFE FOR LASERS:
(PVC and vinyl are not laser safe.
Anodized Aluminum – Engravable (Black Anodized Aluminum provides the best contrast of all Anodized Aluminum)
Brass – Uncoated brass cannot be laser engraved, it must have some type of coating (such as paint).
Glass – can be etched. This includes bottles (both full and empty), glasses, and plain flat glass. It requires a more special technique to record well.
Wood – can be engraved and cut
Too high a power can distort recorded images.
There are also several materials that places won’t tell you to cut, such as:
Skin
cake
Chocolate
Gingerbread
Meat
Pancakes
Finger nails
Cardstock
Paper
Stamps
Software
The last thing you’ll need, other than your laser cutter and the materials you plan to cut, is a computer with some kind of vector graphics software loaded.
For the purpose of these instructions, I will assume you have a CorelDraw X4.
If you prefer to use something else, there are several others that can help you with those programs.
INKSCAPE:
Laser Cut Jewelry Using Free Software
Homemade Holiday Decorations
SKETCHUP AND INKSCAPE:
SketchUp, Inkscape and Ponoko laser cutting, part 1
SketchUp, Inkscape and Ponoko laser cutting, part 2
ILLUSTRATOR
Letters from the
Portable tatoo template
Precautions
The acrylic , the wood , the paper , the plastic , laptops and many other things are flammable, so please do not walk away in the middle of the court, may return faster than I expected.
The aluminum , as in most metals, is quite reflective. It has the potential to send the laser beam from where it came from, damaging the laser diode. When cutting reflective things, never put the reflective side up and make sure not to use too high power.
In addition to all the extra things that no one tells you you can cut, there are several things you should try to avoid cutting. PVC and vinyl create a corrosive chlorine gas that will not only harm you, but could also permanently damage your machine and void your warranty in the process.
Power and speed settings
The power setting determines exactly that. You can control the amount of energy that will be applied to the laser during printing. The more power, more heat and more heat, the greater the possibility of fire.
Experience what you have. Everything is going to be a little different. Each type of wood is going to be slightly different from the next. A slightly thicker acrylic sheet might just need a slower speed or a little higher on power. Try each thing, and when you find out what works for that specific thing, write it down! As long as you use that specific thing in the future, you will know exactly what to set it to.
It also doesn’t help that different laser cutters have different wattage settings, varying what the same power level would do between two machines.
The speed you choose determines how fast the laser will travel while cutting. The slower the speeds, the longer the laser sits at each point, which produces more heat… and I think you see where this is going. It also means that the slower the speed, the deeper the cut or engrave.
In various Epilog manuals, I have found that they recommend the following balances.
Acrylic engraving:
high speed low power (easy to cut) High power has the potential to distort acrylic.
Acrylic cutting – low speed, (relatively) high power.
Anodized aluminum etching – high speed and low power.
Painted brass – high speed, low power (it doesn’t take much to get rid of paint)
Glass: medium speed, high power (experiment as there is a wide range of glasses)
Plastic – experiment with your type of plastic
Wood – experiment and calculate each type of wood separately.
Frequency settings
When cutting vector material, there is an additional adjustment beyond power and speed. The frequency setting controls the number of laser pulses that are applied to the part you are cutting, every inch.
When the laser cutter is running, it does not leave the laser on for the duration of the cut. In raster mode, it acts similar to an inkjet printer, printing thousands upon thousands of dots per inch (dpi). Depending on how dark the area you want to record is, more dpi will be applied.
However, the vector runs in a straight line, which will be etched much like a knife cut. To achieve this, you use slower speeds with equivalent or higher powers than you would in Raster, and you turn the laser on and off multiple times every second, to the point where your eyes can’t tell you are doing it.
The frequency can be set between 10 and 5000 pulses per inch (ppi). Since these pulses travel along the same line as the laser (it is the laser), they end up creating the impression of a straight cut in which the laser is on for the entire duration.
Although there are some reasons to change the ppi. The higher the ppi value, the more the material heats up. So if you are working with wood or other flammable / burnable thing you might want to lower the ppi. This is also useful to lessen the charred / burned look of what you are cutting (like wood).
If you are cutting acrylic and want sharp corners, a low dpi may be useful for you. But if you want to have nice rounded corners and a smooth edge, a higher ppi will help you achieve that look, by melting the edge of the acrylic where the laser is being cut.
Try a few different settings on a practice piece to get an idea of how exactly the appearance changes its material.
Vector vs. Plot
There are two different cutting techniques you can employ when using a laser cutter, a vector and a raster .
Raster tends to be used to engrave things, while vector is much more adept at cutting things out.
Raster engraving is very similar to a normal printer. I hope someone with the intention of using a laser cutter has used an inkjet or laser printer at some point in the past. Printers print on one page from top to bottom, while printing from left to right.
They do not start printing in the lower right corner, then in the upper left and continue to the middle of the page. Weft cutting works the same way. When you press print in the program you decide to print from, the laser cutter will start at the top of the part you are working on and work its way down, while the laser moves from left to right on whatever. Recorded. The laser turns on and off in rapid succession at any point where a normal printer would not shoot ink.
Vector cutting is a bit different if you’ve never experienced it. You’ll start at a point in your image, leave the laser on (more or less, see Step 6: Frequency Settings for more information), and work your way down the line, tracing the entire image before turning the laser off. This is why it tends to be used for cutting rather than engraving.
Última actualización el 2024-02-07 / Enlaces de afiliados / Imágenes de la API para Afiliados